This tea earns its keep in October. A savoury stalwart of the autumn garden, its soft grey-green leaves yield a tisane with startling character, strong, almost meaty and unmistakably cleansing.

Drink it when emails mount, travel blurs or sleep falters. A few sprigs steeped in hot water create a brew said to sharpen the mind. The co-founder of Pukka tea, Tim West-well, is now settled in Penzance in Cornwall, growing some of the herbs he made famous. Mr West-well once sourced from around the world and I first met him on a bus in China. Even for a seasoned herbalist, it is harder than it looks to grow herbs and tea,' he told me, a reminder that every cup of tea begins in the ground.

How to serve

Steep 5-6 fresh leaves or 1tspn dried in freshly boiled water for 5-7 minutes. Avoid over brewing-sage becomes assertive if left too long. Enjoy plain or with lemon.

Where to buy

If you aren't snipping your own, Neal's Yard Remedies sells 50g of dried herb for £6 (020-4553 8215; www.nealsyardremedies.com).

Jonathon Jones tastes tea and exports English-grown tea worldwide